A week ago, P. and I headed northwest after a quick visit to Eugenie the nephrologist, who assured me all my indicators were 'perfect'. We alighted in Beaufort for a very pleasant night in the one motel in town and an okay dinner at the pub. One thing lacking, with a few notable exceptions, in the northwest is much regard for culinary excellence, which is a shame for such a busy tourist area.
We went on to the great wine centre of Great Western where we dropped in for a coffee with Heather A. who has tree-changed to the petrol station there. We toured the cellars of Great Western (Seppelts), miles of underground tunnels, opened (many of them) in the nineteenth century by celebrities and notables. One of our fellow tour party asked about the Melba story (their very bright children asked some good questions). Apparently, Dame Nellie's price for opening a tunnel was a champagne bath. After her bath, the workers asked what to do with the booze. 'Bottle it,' was the answer. Trouble was, they put in 176 bottles and got 177 out.
We also visited Bests and their quaint old plant (with modern bottling facilities). Then we were off to Stawell where we dropped in on Bron N. and the Boyle sisters, and had dinner with the Boyles at a local motel. Not bad, but again, not brilliant. All are well.
Next day, we made for Budja Budja (Halls Gap) and our motel for the next three days. We had several good walks on hot days by starting early, to some rock art, Silverband Falls and viewing the coat of arms live (emus and kangas grazing). The cicadas were deafening. There is a quite good Punjabi eatery in Budja Budja with quaint lifesize statuary, very colourful, of Punjabi crafts. The best meals we had, before Dunkeld, were lunch platters at Mt Zero and the Brambuk Centre, both made up of local produce which is how it should be. The Kookaburra in Budja Budja served local turkey and ham, and it was delicious.
Then, off to Dunkeld, to the famous Royal Mail Hotel. We have eaten there before, but only in the bistro. This time, we had the full tasting menu with matching wines. It was pricey but well worth it. A highlight was the 'Snails in their Habitat', snails in greenery and flowers with burnt brioche instead of dirt. Also, outstanding was the pea and lovage soup with braised scallop (all my favourites in one). As P. pointed out, normally pea soup is fuzzy, but this was clear and intense. Done how? It finished with new strawberries with rose (a kind of chocolate strawberry filled with rose cream). Yummy. The accommodation which we rolled back into was good and spacious. Next day, back to Melbourne and preparing for Christmas.