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On 31 March, P., Frank and I set off for Hobart, ferried to the airport by my father, thanks Dad. We arrived at the Old Woolstore Apartment Hotel and found a very spacious two-bedroom apartment with all facilities. We were soon off to the Art Gallery and Museum, recently renovated and re-opened. It has learned a few lessons from MONA and had a very good history and natural history collection which gave a good introduction to Tasmania, especially exploding some myths about the Tasmanian first people (who had boats, implements and houses, in spite of the vicious rumours). We dined in a winebar, Grape, in Salamanca Place, and had delicious tapas.
The next morning, we caught our boat to MONA which lived up to expectations. P.'s tour is available online if anyone is interested. There are no captions and a handheld device records everything you look up (and what you don't, which you might have seen anyway). We broke for a snack lunch, then ploughed on, fascinated.
The view from the top of MONA across the Derwent. Pic. P.
That evening, we had an excellent fish dinner at the Tasman eateries at the Grand Chancellor Hotel (which looks like a hospital). Next day, Tuesday, we picked up the car, a Corolla like Harley at home, and headed to Bruny Island, picking up some food on the way. We also stopped on Bruny, after catching the ferry, to pick up some more food from various places like The Smokehouse (where we got quail and smoked fish) and the Bruny Island Cheese Co. which is a real treasure. We also stopped at Get Shucked, which I thought might be an eaterie, but was, in fact, a caravan with an excellent woman who sold us fresh oysters at a dollar a pop.
We arrived to the superb view at Bruny Island Beach House, after an eleven km drive along a dirt road which was well worth it.
Pic. P.
We feasted on our scallop pies and artisanal sausage rolls (I know, how pretentious). Next day, we drove along Adventure Bay and along The Neck, which joins the two halves of Bruny, north and south. There is a memorial to Truganini here and a splendid view.
The Neck, Bruny Island. Pic. P.
We then went on a magnificent rainforest walk, Mavista, and had lunch at the Alonnah Pub, which was very many cuts above a normal pub. lunch. We then went to the southern tip of the island (or the one accessible by road) to the old Lighthouse.
Frank, ascending to the Lighthouse. Pic. P.
The Bruny Island seascapes are superb and, contrary to expectations, the island is mercifully not overdeveloped yet. There are few eateries and no large developments.
Next day, Thursday, we crossed to the 'mainland' in the ferry, and had a splendid drive through Cygnet and the Huon Valley to Geeveston, where we did the forest airwalk. It was wonderful walking through the treetops and looking down at the forest floor and the Huon River.
Pic. P.
The walk is managed by the Forestry Department which loses no opportunity for propaganda. Unfortunately, on the way up to the walk, I spied down a side road what looked suspiciously like clearfelling. On the way back, we found it again, and it was. A thin ribbon of forest concealed utter decimation. The Foresters had provided numerous examples of forest regenerated after clearfelling, but this splendid forest did not deserve this.
We finished up at the tiny town of Dover and had a splendid dinner at the old Post Office. Frank and I had the scallop, cheese and bacon pizza to share, and P. had splendid and superior fish and chips. The desserts were great too.
The quaint church at Dover, with headstones. Pic. P.
Next day, Friday, we drove south to Southport and the Hastings Caves. We didn't visit the Caves but went on a glorious rainforest walk with lots of birds and a beautiful stream. Back to Hobart, we dropped the car and met Michael Podesta, at University in Tasmania, for a truly great meal at the Henry Jones Hotel eateries.
On Saturday, we went to the Salamanca Markets which are a victim of their own success and much too crowded to be pleasant and full of tat. We escaped to Battery Point which was amazingly quiet, and then to the Botanical Gardens which were even quieter and very pleasant indeed. Then it was back to Melbourne after a glorious week.
Arthur's Georgian Circus in Battery Point. Pic. P.